Somewhere between Vox & Hunter S. Thompson
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Hondarribia is a beautiful little town that sits on the Spanish side of the Bidasoa river, which form the border between France and Spain in the Bay of Biscay. The estuary that forms here, where the Bidasoa river meets the Atlantic is called the Bay of Txingudi. So, when you look across the water from Hondarribia, you are looking into France. At the end of this article, we’re going to cross the river (spoiler!), but before we do that, we’ll explore this last outpost of Spanish Basque Country.
The Basques (also known as Euskaldunak) are an ethnic group with their own culture and language whose historical home straddles the Pyrenees mountains, occupying northern Spain and southwestern France.
What makes the Basques so intriguing? Let’s start with language. I’m sure you’ve heard of some of the major language families, such as Romance Languages (e.g. Spanish, French, Italian, Portuguese), Germanic Languages (e.g. English, German, Dutch, Swedish), and Slavic Languages (e.g. Russian, Polish, Czech, Serbian). These are groups of related languages that all evolved from a common ancestral language. In fact, languages all over the world can mostly be grouped into “families”… but Basque (Euskara) doesn’t fit into any of them. It is a language isolate, meaning that is bears no relationship at all to any other surviving language. Its origins are utterly mysterious, and the culture it belongs to… oh boy.
Paris needs no introduction, but here’s one anyway.
Paris is the capital of France and—in terms of metro area—the largest city in the European Union by a HUGE margin. According to the OECD, the population is 11.2 million. For context, the next largest metro area population in the EU is Madrid, at 6.9 million. London (now ex-EU) and Istanbul (definitely not EU) clock-in at 13.4m and 14.6m respectively, according to the same OECD data set. So Paris is more than just a historic, beautiful place (although it is those things as well)—it actually fits the definition for a “mega-city”, in the same league as Mumbai, Mexico City or Los Angeles.
